Juliana's

Juliana's is a pizza story with a twist. Patsy Grimaldi and his wife Carol founded Grimaldi's at 19 Old Fulton Street, under the Brooklyn Bridge, then sold it and retired. In 2012 they unretired and came back to the same address with a friend, and opened Juliana's in the original hand-built coal-fired oven. Grimaldi's, by then, had moved next door.

The name honours Patsy's mother, Juliana Lancieri Grimaldi, born in Melfi. Her brother Pasquale, also Patsy, opened Patsy's Pizzeria in East Harlem in 1933, so the family has been in New York pizza for nearly a century.

The pies are thin, the toppings are house-made or carefully bought, and the coal oven does the rest.

The pies are thin, the toppings are house-made or carefully bought, and the coal oven does the rest. It is not a wine destination and does not pretend to be. Order a whole pie, sit with it, and then walk it off on the bridge.

It does not take bookings, so go at an off hour or accept the wait. Why it impresses: you are eating from the oven where Grimaldi's began, made by a family that has been at this for nearly a century.

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