Kismet

Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson came west from Brooklyn, where their restaurant Glasserie sat by the Pulaski Bridge, and first fed Los Angeles from Madcapra, a falafel stall in Grand Central Market. In early 2017 they opened Kismet on the southern edge of Los Feliz. Jonathan Gold read their cooking as the product of Alice Waters and Claudia Roden cookbooks: the landscape of California, the lingering flavours of the Levant, vegetables first and bits of animal at the edges, if at all.

The room is plant-filled midcentury modern, and when Gold reviewed it, it smelled of za'atar. The menu is light and layered. Freekeh fritters with what the kitchen calls a 'pickley green sauce'. Lemony chicken and pine-nut pies. Shaved kohlrabi with kumquat and barberry. Tokyo turnips in butter with preserved lemon. Jeweled crispy rice. The dish is the rabbit platter, stew, roasted legs and grilled kebabs with squash, which was their famous dish in Brooklyn and feeds two, perhaps four.

Tokyo turnips in butter with preserved lemon.

To drink, natural wine and something fizzy, as Gold had it with the turnips. In the daytime, the rosewater lemonade.

Book a table for two at dinner and order the rabbit. It is the meal for someone who says they do not much like vegetables, and leaves converted.

Text to ask.