Gracias Madre

Gracias Madre came to Melrose Avenue in January 2014 from the family behind Café Gratitude. Matthew and Terces Engelhart had founded both; Lisa Bonbright, who ran their Los Angeles restaurants, brought it south from San Francisco with their sons Cary Mosier and Ryland Engelhart. It is organic, sustainable and entirely plant-based Mexican, which in West Hollywood in 2014 was a statement and is now simply lunch.

The opening menu set the pattern: antojitos, tamales, enchiladas and tacos on hand-made corn tortillas, cooked by the executive chef Chandra Gilbert. Nobody misses the meat, which is the trick.

The bar is the other draw, built around small-batch tequila and mezcal, and the patio, lined with olive trees, is where you want to drink it. Variety's account of the opening put the cocktails and the festive patio at the top.

It is an easy table to get. Go for a long late lunch outdoors on a warm weekday, or for a big table on a weekend night. Why we like it: it is the rare restaurant that feels virtuous and enjoyable at once.

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